Traditional – Formal headings

Triple pleat, double pleat and goblet

These are fixed Headings which can give the room a traditional, classic and formal look. They all use more fabric than the other headings, which adds a luxorious feel but will use more room, once pulled back, which will ultimately block more light. These are also a fixed heading, which should fit to the pole/track exactly, so all measurements must be taken exact and correctly.

Contemporary - Eyelet

Eyelet Curtains

This is a modern fashionable heading, only to be used with a curtain pole. They look sleek, hang straight and no fuss. They stack back neatly, which is ideal for windows where you need to maximise the light and limits the space used on either side of the frame.

Simple - Tab tops

Tab Top Curtain

This is a simple design, good to use for decorative purposes. Good to use when contrasting fabrics, one fabric in the main curtain and the other use on the tabs to create a fun country look. This heading can only be fitted to a curtain pole and obviously doesn’t need rings. This design often needs more fuss than other curtains as they don’t draw back as easy. Also remember you must have a generous amount of wall space above the window to the pole, otherwise the top of the window will show through the tab.

Classic – Informal

Standard pencil pleats (3”) & deep pleats (6”)

This is a great, relaxed, informal general purpose heading. Adjustable heading in width so you can gather to your choice. They give a classic country style appearance which suits most fabrics and rooms. The standard pencil pleat is good for short and sill length curtains whilst the deep heading is ideal for a more formal full length curtains giving a more tailored look. This heading can be used under valances, on tracks and poles.

• Measure the width of the track or pole (F) adding any extra for centre overlapping, normally about 6ins (15 cms)(If it is a track that overlaps). If it ios pole measure from inside the finial.
• Multiply the track width by 1.5, 2 or 2.5 depending on the heading to be used.
• Divide that by the width of the fabric, normally 48" or 54" (122 cms or 137 cms), and round up to the next whole number to give the number of widths required. If an odd number results then one width can be cut in half and added to the outside edge of each curtain.

Measuring Curtain Width. Inside the Window Recess

• Measure the width of the window recess (E) and multiply by 1.5, 2 or 2.5 depending on the heading to be used.
• Divide that by the width of the fabric, normally 48" or 54" (122 cms or 137 cms), and round up to the next whole number to give the number of widths required. If an odd number results then one width can be cut in half and added to the outside edge of each curtain.

Measuring Curtain Length. Outside the Window Recess

• For a pole, measure from the bottom of the ring to wherever you wish the curtains to fall (A, B or D).
• For a track, measure from the top of the track to wherever you wish the curtain to fall (A, B or D).
• For tab top curtains, measure from the top of the pole to the required finished length (A, B or D). Deduct the length of the tabs (approx. 3" [7.5 cms]) as the top of the curtain must come above the top of window frame. (This may mean moving the pole.) For Eyelet curtains measure from the top of the pole and add 3.5cm to the overall length and for rod pockets measure form the top of the pole and add 2 cm to the overall length.
• To this measurement add 8" (20 cms) to the finished length (2" (5 cms) for the top seam allowance and 6" (15 cms) for the bottom hem) for lined and unlined curtains with attached heading tape or tab tops.
• For lined and unlined curtains with cased headings add 15" (40 cms) to the finished length for the turnings.
• Short curtains should finish 0.4" (1 cm) above the bottom of the sill or radiator and full length curtains should fall within 0.4" (1 cms) of the floor.
• If patterned material is to be used then each length has to be a full pattern repeat, for example:- With a pattern repeat of 25" and a curtain finished length of 54" you will need 75" for each drop. i.e. 54" + 8" for hems = 62" rounded up to the next multiple of 25" (your pattern repeat). Multiply this amount by the number of widths required and hey presto you have the length of fabric required.
• To calculate the amount of lining required (if used) multiply (the finished length plus hem allowance) by the number of widths required. Ignore any adjustments for pattern matching.

Measuring Curtain Length. Inside the Window Recess

• Measure the length of the window recess (C). Curtains should finish 0.4" (1cm) above the window sill so they fall correctly.
• To this measurement add 8" (20 cms) to the finished length [2" (5 cms) for the top seam allowance and 6" (15 cms) for the bottom hem] for lined and unlined curtains with attached heading tape or tab tops.
• For lined and unlined curtains with cased headings, add 15”(40cm).
• If patterned material is to be used then each length has to be a full pattern repeat, for example:- With a pattern repeat of 25" and a curtain finished length of 54" you will need 75" for each drop. i.e. 54" + 8" for hems = 62" rounded up to the next multiple of 25" (your pattern repeat). Multiply this amount by the number of widths required and hey presto you have the length of fabric required.
• For curtains with heading tape or tab tops, calculate the amount of lining required (if used) by multiplying (finished length + hem allowance) by the number of widths required. Hem allowance is usually 6" (15 cms) [2" (5 cms) for the top seam allowance and 4" (10 cms) for the bottom hem]. Ignore any adjustments for pattern matching.
• For curtains with cased headings, calculate the amount of lining required (if used) by multiplying (finished length + hem allowance) by the number of widths required. Ignore any adjustments for pattern matching.

Please note the above is only a guide designed to help you, based on how we make curtains at AZEST. If you are making the curtains yourself or have hired a seamstress to work on your behalf, please seek advice before confirming the amount of fabric required.

Measuring Blind Widths Outside the Window Recess

• Measure the width of the window sill or window frame (F), whichever is wider,add 10-15cm to the overall width to allow for full coverage of the window and multiply by the fullness needed for the particular blind you wish to make.
• Divide that by the width of the fabric, normally 48" or 54" (125cms or 137cms), and round up to the next whole number to give the number of widths required.
• A full width of fabric is always positioned in the centre with equal part widths added to each side of the blind.

Measuring Blind Widths Inside the Window Recess

• Measure the width of the window recess (E) and multiply by the fullness needed for the particular blind you wish to make. Measure the width in three places top, middle and bottom, use the smallest measurement deduct 1 cm from the measurement to give you the blind width.
• Divide that by the width of the fabric, normally 48" or 54" (125cms or 137cms), and round up to the next whole number to give the number of widths required.
• A full width of fabric is always positioned in the centre with equal part widths added to each side of the blind.

Measuring Blind Length Outside the Window Recess

• Measure from the top of the wooden batten or blind track depending on style of the blind to the bottom of the window sill or the required length (B) and add the hem allowances. To this measurement add any extra length needed for the style of blind you wish to make.
• If more than one width is required and a patterned fabric is to be used then extra fabric will be needed in each length to match the pattern across the widths.

Measuring Blind Length Inside the Window Recess

• Measure the length of the window recess (C), again measure in three different place take the smallest measurement and take 0.5cm from the overall length and add the hem allowances. To this measurement add any extra length needed for the style of blind you wish to make.
• If more than one width is required and a patterned fabric is to be used then extra fabric will be needed in each length to match the pattern across the widths.

Measuring the Width for Top Treatments

• Measure the width of the pelmet board, box board or valance track including the returns (sides) (A).
• Make a note of the overall measurement.
• For pelmets and swags & tails it is necessary to make a note of the front width and the widths of the sides as well as the overall width.
• Divide the overall width by the width of the fabric, normally 48" or 54" (125 cms or 137 cms), and round up to the next whole number to give the number of widths required.
• A full width of fabric is always positioned in the centre with equal part widths added to each side of a pelmet or valance.

Measuring the Length for Top Treatments

• Measure from the top edge of the pelmet board, box board or valance track to the desired length (D).
• All top treatments should be in proportion to the rest of the window treatments, approximately 1/6 of the length with a minimum of 6" (15 cms).
• It is advisable to cut a piece of paper to the required length and pin it in place before making a top treatment. An old roll of wallpaper is ideal for this. The length of the paper can be adjusted easily until the desired effect is achieved.
• If more than one width is required and a patterned fabric is to be used then extra fabric will be needed in each length to match the pattern across the widths.

Please note the above is only a guide designed to help you, based on how we make blinds and top treatments at AZEST. If you are making the curtains yourself or have hired a seamstress to work on your behalf, please seek advice before confirming the amount of fabric required.